In the Shababeek cafe located on the second floor, one can overlook the clock tower square in the city of Idlib. Remarkably, the side reserved for men was almost vacant, with only two young men sipping on cups of Turkish coffee. In contrast, the family side, where women are permitted, was nearly filled to capacity.

The Absence of Music and Hookah Smoke

There was an unusual silence in the cafe, with only the soft hiss of the espresso machine and the gentle clinking of cups breaking the tranquility. This was in stark contrast to other cafes in Syria, as here in Shababeek, the air was free from the haze of hookah smoke. This was due to an agreement that the owner, Yahia Naeme, had to sign with Hayat Tahrir al-Sham, the Islamist group that has been in power for years in much of Idlib Province and now controls a significant part of the country along with other rebel factions. "From the very beginning, hookahs and music were prohibited," said Mr. Naeme. He lamented that this ban had negatively impacted his business as many people used to come specifically to enjoy smoking hookahs in his cafe. "If we can't provide what they want, they will get bored and leave for other places," he added.

The Skirting of the Law by Other Cafes

In Idlib, other cafes have found a way to bypass the law by offering hookahs in hidden, speakeasy-like environments behind closed doors. However, Mr. Naeme was reluctant to take such risks and avoid running afoul of the area's rulers. He preferred to abide by the regulations and maintain the peace and order in his cafe.

Friday Prayer in Taftanaz

In the former frontline town of Taftanaz in Idlib Province, the atmosphere during Friday Prayer was a sight to behold. The devout gathered to offer their prayers, with a sense of unity and spirituality in the air. It was a reminder of the resilience and faith of the people in the face of the ongoing conflict.

The Impact of the Ban on Business

The ban on hookahs and music had a significant impact on Mr. Naeme's business. He saw a decline in customer traffic as many regulars who came specifically for the hookah experience stopped coming. This forced him to think of alternative ways to attract customers and keep his business afloat. He had to explore new marketing strategies and offer other amenities to make his cafe more appealing.