Arianne Phillips, a renowned costume designer and visual artist, has once again captivated audiences with her latest work on James Mangold’s biopic, "A Complete Unknown." This film, which delves into the early years of Bob Dylan's career, marks Phillips' fourth Academy Award nomination for best costume design. Her collaboration with Mangold spans over two decades, beginning with "Girl, Interrupted" in 1999. For this project, Phillips and her team meticulously crafted approximately 8,000 costumes, including an impressive 67 wardrobe changes for Timothée Chalamet, who portrays Dylan.
The film explores Dylan's transformation from a young, aspiring musician to a global superstar. Phillips highlights the thrill of guiding the audience through Dylan's dramatic style evolution during his formative years. From a fresh-faced teenager arriving in New York with dreams of meeting Woody Guthrie to a 24-year-old icon on the rise, Dylan's fashion journey is both intentional and symbolic. Phillips drew inspiration from various sources, including biographies, news reels, and photographs, to recreate pivotal moments like the 1965 Newport Folk Festival and scenes at Columbia Records. The added time due to production delays allowed for deeper research, ensuring historical accuracy and authenticity.
Dylan's evolving style is divided into three distinct phases. The first phase captures his proletariat look from 1961-62, characterized by Pendleton shirts, worker dungarees, and a baker boy hat. As his career progressed, Dylan adopted a slimmer silhouette, incorporating classic Levi’s 501s and leather jackets adorned with intricate details. By 1965, after meeting influential figures like The Beatles, Dylan embraced the mod look, featuring peacoats, stovepipe trousers, and angular sunglasses. Phillips also paid homage to key figures in Dylan's life, such as Suze Rotolo and Joan Baez, whose styles complemented and contrasted with Dylan's own aesthetic. The attention to detail extended to sourcing vintage pieces and collaborating with artisans to create custom clothing, resulting in a visually stunning portrayal of an iconic era.
The dedication to authenticity and craftsmanship in "A Complete Unknown" not only honors Dylan's legacy but also underscores the power of fashion in storytelling. Through her work, Phillips celebrates the transformative nature of art and the importance of staying true to one's vision. Her collaboration with Mangold and the cast has resulted in a film that resonates with audiences, offering a fresh perspective on a legendary figure while inspiring future generations to embrace their unique style and creativity.