Oran, a port city on Algeria's northwestern coast, is a fascinating blend of architectural styles and cultural influences. The city has been shaped by successive waves of invaders, each leaving their mark on its fabric. From the Ottoman Palais du Bey to the French colonial architecture, Oran stands as a testament to its complex history. Despite its rich heritage, tourism remains underdeveloped, with only a handful of visitors exploring its landmarks. The city's vibrant music scene, particularly Rai, offers a glimpse into its countercultural spirit, though this energy is often confined to private spaces. Oran's pluralist identity extends beyond its borders to nearby Tlemcen, where Arabic, Berber, and Andalusian influences converge, creating a unique cultural landscape.

The Layers of Oran's Architectural Heritage

Oran's architectural tapestry reflects centuries of conquest and transformation. The crumbling Palais du Bey, built by the Ottomans in the 18th century, showcases elements from various eras. Spanish influence is evident in the expansive stone terrace, while the French added showers to the existing hamams. This palimpsest of styles tells a story of shifting power dynamics. Inside the dilapidated palace, remnants of different civilizations coexist: mortared walls, arched doorways, and cavernous stables bear witness to the city's layered history. Guides like Haflid help visitors navigate this complex legacy, pointing out which features belong to which era. Yet, for many residents, this intricate past is simply part of daily life in Oran.

The city's history is not just visible in its buildings but also in its people. Founded as an Andalusian trading hub in the 10th century, Oran became a melting pot during the French colonial period when two-thirds of the population were European settlers known as pieds-noirs. Today, Oran is fully Algerian, yet it retains strong ties to the Mediterranean. Walking through its streets, one can encounter an Ottoman-era mosque, an art deco turret, and a Parisian-style opera house within minutes. This fusion of styles makes Oran a living museum, where every corner reveals a new chapter in its storied past. The city's ability to seamlessly integrate diverse influences speaks to its resilience and adaptability over time.

Rai Music: Oran's Countercultural Heartbeat

Oran's cultural richness extends beyond its architecture to its music scene, particularly Rai. Originating in the 1920s, Rai is a genre that challenges social norms with its bold lyrics and lively rhythms. Performers like Cheikha Rimiti and Cheb Khaled have achieved international fame, blending traditional and modern sounds. Rai's subversive nature made it a target during Algeria's post-independence crackdown on liberal ideas. Many artists fled to France, but the music's spirit endured. In places like Le Cardinal bar, Rai continues to thrive, offering a space for expression and celebration. Despite being largely confined to private venues, Rai remains central to Oran's identity, symbolizing the city's defiance against conformity.

The impact of Rai on Oran's cultural landscape cannot be overstated. Its origins are rooted in the city's multicultural heritage, drawing from Jewish, Andalusian, classical Arabic, and Bedouin traditions. Newer artists infuse Rai with hip-hop elements, keeping the genre fresh and relevant. However, public performances remain rare due to conservative attitudes. Even so, Rai's influence permeates everyday life, especially in private settings. For instance, at Le Cardinal, a traditional Rai singer named Redouane performs late-night sets, captivating audiences with his soulful voice. His music bridges the gap between past and present, reminding listeners of Oran's rich musical legacy. Through Rai, Oran continues to celebrate its pluralistic identity, proving that even in challenging times, the city's spirit remains unbroken.