Academy Award-nominated costume designer Paul Tazewell has truly showcased his remarkable talent in the world of costume design. His work in West Side Story, Harriet, and the magical world of Wicked demonstrates an extraordinary ability to infuse versatility into his creative DNA. Tazewell's passion for period work and storytelling connected to history shines through in his designs.

Unveiling the Versatility of Paul Tazewell's Costume Designs

Character-Driven Design in Wicked

Tazewell's work in Wicked is characterized by his deep connection to the characters. Take Cynthia Erivo's Elphaba witch hat and Emerald City dress, for example. He makes design decisions specific to each character and their story, considering what choices they would make and how it relates to their identity. For Elphaba and Glinda, it's all about balancing their relationship and how their costumes evolve along with them, set against a world of light and dark contrasts.The inspiration for Elphaba's dresses came from mushroom, fungus, and Fibonacci spirals, resulting in a Victorian-inspired silhouette rooted in 1890s fashion that pays tribute to the original Wicked Witch of the West.

Inspiration and Engineering in Glinda's Dress

Ariana Grande's Glinda bubble dress is a technical marvel. Inspired by the idea of bubbles floating in the sky, the dress features a crinoline layer reminiscent of a petticoat topped with iridescent organza. There is hooping to create structure and stiff nylon netting cut into spiral shapes and twisted into cones to give the gown lightness. The use of pink pays homage to actress Billie Burke's portrayal of Glinda the Good Witch of the North in the 1939 classic The Wizard of Oz. The dress is adorned with beads, crystals, and sequins, evoking a sense of whimsy and requiring a lot of engineering to ensure it moves gracefully.

Risk-Taking in Elphaba's Wardrobe

When crafting Elphaba's wardrobe, Tazewell took risks, leaning into the character's darkness and individuality. Having collaborated with Erivo on Harriet, he knew that Elphaba may be marginalized and ostracized but still has personal style. He wanted to make bolder choices for her, a reflection of her inner world. The Victorian-inspired silhouette is rooted in 1890s fashion and pays tribute to the original Wicked Witch. The designer drew from organic elements like mushrooms, fungus, and Fibonacci spirals to inspire earthy textures such as micropleated fabric and felted details. The way her bodice embroidery and puffed sleeves interact, and how the skirt moves when she spins, all contribute to a unique and captivating look.

Design Philosophy and Actor-Inhabited Roles

A governing philosophy of Tazewell's designs is the choices made by those who wear the costumes. For every character, he lives vicariously through their story. Their needs influence his investment in the work, and he wants to infer a quality of life for them that becomes real once the actor steps into the costume and fully inhabits the role.This story first appeared in a December stand-alone issue of The Hollywood Reporter magazine. To receive the magazine, click here to subscribe.