Chanel's six-month recruitment campaign for a creative director has come to a close with the appointment of Matthieu Blazy. This move marks a significant shift in the brand's strategy and offers a rare glimpse into Chanel's inner workings.

Unveiling Chanel's New Design Vision

Chanel's Recruitment Drama

The most glamorous job hunt in fashion has finally ended. Chanel's decision to appoint the 40-year-old French-Belgian designer Matthieu Blazy has brought an end to a highly anticipated search. During this six-month period, almost every top tier name in fashion was linked to the role, creating a buzz in the industry. Blazy's appointment from Bottega Veneta, where he has held a senior position for three years, adds a new dimension to Chanel's creative team.His previous experience at Calvin Klein, Celine, and Maison Margiela has equipped him with the skills and knowledge needed to take on this prestigious role. Despite being relatively unknown outside of the industry, Blazy was considered an underdog in a field filled with big names like Marc Jacobs, Jeremy Scott, Hedi Slimane, Simon Porte Jacquemus, Pieter Mulier of Azzedine Alaïa, and Pierpaolo Piccioli.

Chanel's Strategy Revealed

Blazy's appointment provides a unique insight into Chanel's strategy. As a privately owned and famously secretive brand, Chanel is phenomenally successful, with global revenue reaching $19.7bn in 2023, representing a 16% annual increase. By choosing an insider favorite like Blazy rather than a celebrity name, CEO Leena Nair has prioritized taste and design over showmanship and name recognition. This decision is in contrast to that of Louis Vuitton, which appointed Pharrell Williams last year, whose creative background is primarily in music.Chanel may be taking cues from Hermes, which has a low-profile designer but whose handbags are highly aspirational. By choosing a designer with a more understated profile, Chanel aims to focus on the brand itself rather than relying on a star designer to draw attention. The continued rise of Chanel sales during the five years under Virginie Viard may have given Nair and Bruno Pavlovsky the confidence to take a risk on a lesser-known name.

Blazy's Design Philosophy

Blazy's appointment will delight fashion insiders who appreciate his cerebral love of design and passion for the craft of clothes. His first Milan fashion week outing for Bottega Veneta featured a trompe l'oeil look of jeans and a check shirt, worn by Kate Moss. This look was later revealed to be fine leather handpainted to resemble denim and flannel. His most recent Milan show was his most esoteric yet, inspired by the scene in ET where the extra terrestrial hides among stuffed toys. At this show, he replaced chairs with individual animal-themed bean bags and trimmed dresses with metal matchsticks. Models' faces were concealed by fringed leather wigs, and some carried bouquets of lilies hand-knitted from brightly coloured wool instead of handbags.This shows Blazy's ability to think outside the box and create unique and innovative designs. His focus on the details and craftsmanship of the clothes is evident in his work, and it is sure to bring a new perspective to Chanel.